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Discussion starter · #63 ·
brother you have have way to much time on your hands !!! I forgot to mention, you could just bend the mount down a tad so the tag light wasn't beaming back, i figured that out on my 1st ride, i also dimmed the light a little so it wasn't so bright ! nice job though !!
 
brother you have have way to much time on your hands !!! I forgot to mention, you could just bend the mount down a tad so the tag light wasn't beaming back, i figured that out on my 1st ride, i also dimmed the light a little so it wasn't so bright ! nice job though !!
Where’s the fun in doing that?
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
ECU arrived back from @vcyclenut so that's back on the bike and plugged in.

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The $25 eBay smoked windscreen is next

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Now for the Shorai battery that saves 5 lbs over stock

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Had to trim the positive side a little so the cable and boot can fit on. The cable terminal for the negative side had to be slightly flattened out. Super easy.

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Added some foam padding to ensure the smaller Shorai is secure in the box

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Lastly charge it up with the Shorai specific charger before first use

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Discussion starter · #68 ·
Took off the helmet lock bracket, which with the lock itself is almost half a pound

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Then got to soldering the wires I had to cut when I repositioned the license plate light level with the ground.

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Took the huge rubber boots off the connectors for the signals and plate. They were taking up space in the limited rear seat storage area

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Some thoughtful wire routing helps maximize every bit of space for storage

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Then I added more ISC Racers tape to the underside of the tail since there were already rock chips showing with less than 1000 miles.

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Next the ABS stickers on the front fender have to go.

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The solo rear seat cowl looks great. I like it a lot.

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The bike is all back together and ready to ride so I can test out the new ECU flash.

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Discussion starter · #69 ·
Figured I should install the Graves frame sliders and aluminum engine mount spacers now too.

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The aluminum engine mount spacers are way lighter than the steel ones.

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The instructions for the @Gravesport FSK-23ZX4-K frame sliders aren't on their website, so I'll use the Kawasaki spec of 44 ft lbs from the FSM to torque the bolts.

https://www.gravesport.com/instructions.html

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Do one at a time, and you can see the left spacer and slider in place below.

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The fairing on the left side installs without issue when the slider is in place.

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Not the case for the right side though. There is a bracket at the arrow in the picture below that required me to pry the slider through the hole to let it pass through.

I have an idea on how to mill away a small amount of material from the backside of the Delrin slider to solve this. I remove my fairings frequently for cleaning and inspection and won't be able to tolerate removing the frame slider every time or shoving it through the hole with the bracket binding before it slips past.

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Discussion starter · #72 ·
Clicking your link and selecting the "VIDEOS" tab leads to a dead end. No video there. I'm all good though as all I needed was a torque number and I got that from the FSM. Just helping you guys out with awareness on the gaps.
It's on the product page. Look underneath the add to cart button at the descriptions and scroll down. It's a youtube video right in the product information. Thanks for the information and business.

 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
It's on the product page. Look underneath the add to cart button at the descriptions and scroll down. It's a youtube video right in the product information. Thanks for the information and business.
I see the video now at the bottom of the description tab, thanks! I was confused after going to the videos tab and seeing nothing there.

The written instructions for the FSK-23ZX4-K sliders and W-WHK-23ZX4-01 spacers are definitely not on your site though. It would be better to have the card that arrives in the box with the product, as well as the "Instructions" section of each product page to point to your videos instead of the install instruction download page which doesn't have anything to help install them on the bike.

Also I noticed the frame slider kit in the install video has 14mm hex head bolts, whereas I got 8mm socket head Allen bolts in mine.

That's not a bad thing, but just different than what's in the install video. If someone with limited tools is using that video to prepare for an install to make sure they have everything on hand ahead of time, they might get caught out.
 
I see the video now at the bottom of the description tab, thanks! I was confused after going to the videos tab and seeing nothing there.

The written instructions for the FSK-23ZX4-K sliders and W-WHK-23ZX4-01 spacers are definitely not on your site though. It would be better to have the card that arrives in the box with the product, as well as the "Instructions" section of each product page to point to your videos instead of the install instruction download page which doesn't have anything to help install them on the bike.

Also I noticed the frame slider kit in the install video has 14mm hex head bolts, whereas I got 8mm socket head Allen bolts in mine.

That's not a bad thing, but just different than what's in the install video. If someone with limited tools is using that video to prepare for an install to make sure they have everything on hand ahead of time, they might get caught out.
We upgraded the bolts in the production kits. The sliders and spacers have a link back to the product pages on the install page. We have been doing install videos instead of written instructions when we can. Thanks and enjoy riding this weekend.
 
Figured I should install the Graves frame sliders and aluminum engine mount spacers now too.

Image


The aluminum engine mount spacers are way lighter than the steel ones.

Image

Image


The instructions for the @Gravesport FSK-23ZX4-K frame sliders aren't on their website, so I'll use the Kawasaki spec of 44 ft lbs from the FSM to torque the bolts.

https://www.gravesport.com/instructions.html

Image

Image


Do one at a time, and you can see the left spacer and slider in place below.

Image

Image


The fairing on the left side installs without issue when the slider is in place.

Image


Not the case for the right side though. There is a bracket at the arrow in the picture below that required me to pry the slider through the hole to let it pass through.

I have an idea on how to mill away a small amount of material from the backside of the Delrin slider to solve this. I remove my fairings frequently for cleaning and inspection and won't be able to tolerate removing the frame slider every time or shoving it through the hole with the bracket binding before it slips past.

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Thanks for the write up. My sliders just came in the mail today, so I’ll be installing mine soon. Did you have to support the engine while installing the sliders?
 
Thanks for the write up. My sliders just came in the mail today, so I’ll be installing mine soon. Did you have to support the engine while installing the sliders?
My 2cents, but I haven't installed a set.
Definitely do one at at time.
Lots of N400 guys pulled both sides at once, then struggled to line up holes.
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
Thanks for the write up. My sliders just came in the mail today, so I’ll be installing mine soon. Did you have to support the engine while installing the sliders?
No support needed if you do one at a time like folks already said.

If you aren't removing/replacing the engine mount spacers it's even easier.
 
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