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We will be stocking suspension but this round was developed and put into production months ago. We have quite a bit now but I'd suspect another 3-4 months before a load this big is on hand after this sell outs based on past wait periods.
 
I was quite lost for most of the first couple sessions before I could start to remember which way the track goes and what to do, when.
Don't let him fool you. Oden himself dropped down from Valhalla to praise the glory after each of AV80R's rides. He even had a flying drone following him around to document the event!
 
Discussion starter · #290 ·
While waiting for the Bitubo suspension to come back, the Woodcraft rearsets arrived today.

I scraped my shifter on the track this past weekend, so I'm keen on these.

Let'a cut to the chase and show the before/after.

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There are a multitude of combinations to choose from in terms of rearset height (high/low), peg position (high/low), peg eccentrics (6 positions)

I highlighted the ones I chose in red below.

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On the brake side, make sure to remove the master cylinder from the stock rearset before removing it from the frame.

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These beautiful carbon fiber heel plates are now for sale: [$90 USD] FS: Carbon fiber heel plates

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Disconnect the rear brake switch under the front seat, right in front of the battery. I was able to get a screwdriver in there, push the release tab forward, and unplug it.

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Make sure to clean all the red Kawasaki Loctite out of the frame.

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Depending on your chosen peg position, you may have to think ahead and install the pivot bolt for the rear brake before tightening the peg (which covers the bolt head, slightly)
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You need to harvest some parts from your rear brake pedal for the new rearsets.

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I opted not to use the nylon peg end plugs or relocate the master cylinder outboard. I don't think it's necessary.

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I removed the guide loop for the rear brake switch wire, since I'm running with no rear brake light.

I also removed the guide loop for the rear brake line, but sorry no pics.

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Here is the final result. Of course will have to ride it and adjust the pedals up/down as needed.
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I've been running their rearsets on my RS250 for years and really like them.

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Looks great!

I got the call today that mine's all ready to pick up, except we're going with the K-Tech, which is backordered. I'll get it by the end of the week and get some miles in, and then bring it back in later for the suspension upgrades.
 
I want the cartridges badly, but I have to slow down. I've already installed nearly $7,000 on parts and I don't even have an exhaust or wheels yet!

The lack of adequate damping on the forks is a major weak point.

On another note, I decided to push the bars outwards so they are flush with the brackets for aesthetics.

The east adjustability of these bars is great. Both sweep and tilt and quick changes with just an 8mm wrench.

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I want the cartridges badly, but I have to slow down. I've already installed nearly $7,000 on parts and I don't even have an exhaust or wheels yet!

The lack of adequate damping on the forks is a major weak point.

On another note, I decided to push the bars outwards so they are flush with the brackets for aesthetics.

The east adjustability of these bars is great. Both sweep and tilt and quick changes with just an 8mm wrench.

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hey, looks great @AV80R. How much torque did you use for the fasteners for the fork and bars?
 
Discussion starter · #296 · (Edited)
hey, looks great @AV80R. How much torque did you use for the fasteners for the fork and bars?
I was using a T handle on a socket for the bar clamps, and just used "fitters feel" which is a fancy way of saying I didn't use a torque wrench but swagged it based on 40 years of stripping threads [emoji1787]

Tighten until it strips, then back off 1/2 a turn (j/k)

For the triple clamp to the forks, I used the torque value in the service manual, for for what it was but it's posted in the thread where I uploaded the entire manual. See my signature for a link or click here.
 
I was using a T handle on a socket for the bar clamps, and just used "fitters feel" which is a fancy way of saying I didn't use a torque wrench but swagged it based on 40 years of stripping threads [emoji1787]

Tighten until it strips, then back of 1/2 a turn (j/k)

For the triple clamp to the forks, I used the torque value in the service manual, for for what it was but it's posted in the thread where I uploaded the entire manual. See my signature for a link or click here.
Lol. Thanks for the tips and I’ve got the service manual.
 
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