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Discussion starter · #641 ·
Here are a few tools that I had on hand that made installing the Graves fairings much easier.

First that half round bastard file. One side is flat, the other round. It allows me to carefull take off a little or a lot of material as needed.

Round side

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Flat side:


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A set of cleco pliers and 3/32" clecos.

Instead of drilling a 1/4"+ hole that fits the fastener and hoping it's in the right place, you drill a tiny 3/32" hole and then can hold the two fairings together by squeezing a cleco with the pliers into the hole and releasing it. The cleco is spring loaded and jams itself on the back side pulling both panels securely together (temporarily of course).

These are in my toolbox primarily for aircraft sheet metal repair.

Once you have all the fairings on with clecos and are happy with the hole placement, you can drill them bigger and install the Dzus quick release fastener hardware.

Cleco pliers: Cleko Pliers

Clecos (buy 3/32" for this application!): Kwik Loc Cleko-Type Fasteners

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Discussion starter · #642 ·
If there's interest, I can spend the effort to put together a step by step tutorial with pics on fitting the Graves bodywork. Let me know if that's useful.

So far I only know of one other member here that is buying them and will be fitting them on themselves.
 
If there's interest, I can spend the effort to put together a step by step tutorial with pics on fitting the Graves bodywork. Let me know if that's useful.

So far I only know of one other member here that is buying them and will be fitting them on themselves.
Needless to say for me that it would VERY helpful :love:
 
indeed. I guess for the majority of the users it ends with a tail tighty, ECU flash and a slip on. Nothing wrong with that, although I would had encouraged them to get a Ninja 400 and safe the other 5grand.

for more off topic on this point,

the battle of my personal top 3 track day bikes at the moment. Its CRAZY to see how much advantage the Zx4rr has out of the corners, in the right hands. You can jump so much earlier back on the throttle. I can't wait to get back out there. Especially with all the performance upgrades.. Suspension and power (better power weight ratio) .. brakes where out of the box good enough already. :love:
r6 is still the best sounding bike on the planet for me.
 
indeed. I guess for the majority of the users it ends with a tail tighty, ECU flash and a slip on. Nothing wrong with that, although I would had encouraged them to get a Ninja 400 and safe the other 5grand.
A twin ain't nothing like a 4-in-line 400. I would pay 10 grand more for that exciting feeling. :censored:
 
It actually will be helpful in general for those wanting to have an idea of how to install race fairings.

Even if the fairings are different the info and ideas passed on will help someone. 👍
 
Discussion starter · #650 ·
Just some random titanium bolts I decided to put on today.

Hex head for the side of the rear inner fender on the tail

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Passenger seat latch got button head

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Hex head for the battery hold down, rider seat latch, and inner fender

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Large flange hex head on the voltage regulator

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Large flange hex head, nut with ti washer for the horn

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A couple hex heads for the front wheel sensor

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Large flange hex head with holes for the coolant reservoir

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Large flange hex head for the guide bracket that bolts to the radiator as well as the wire guide on the frame. Large flange hex head with holes for the radiator mount.

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And finally some tapered socket head for the JetPrime right switch.

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Discussion starter · #652 ·
This is one of my least favorite things. It's up there with scraping gaskets. 🤦🏻‍♂️

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So I had to treat myself to opening the graphics kit for the race plastics to check them out.

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I'm torn...do I put these decals top of the clear coat (like my OE street plastics) or spend the extra time and money to have them put under the clear coat?

On top of the clear will be easier to repair in the event of a tip over and damage.

Under the clear will look way better though.
 
I would put them under the clear.. you are doing all the work now so on this point - make it nice and shiny. I know about your goal for 2024 but how likely will it be that you damage several body parts all at the same time? get a second set of decals and you are looking into replacing one panel at a time. my 2cents :geek:
 
Interesting, for the race plastics I would always go the other way and put decals over clear coat just because it is more likely to be damaged and then you can repair it more easily. But if course it's your call 🤷‍♂️
 
Discussion starter · #655 ·
For me it's not a matter of if but when that happens.

Thinking about this some more, I could keep an extra set of decals on hand and slap them on top of damage as a band aid if needed. 🤔

Having them under the clear takes significantly more time & effort to do, at least for me.
 
Discussion starter · #656 ·
Here's the last set of race fairings I painted (tank is stock paint).

Everything except the Arrow decal and numbers is under the clear and looks really nice.

This RS250 broke all the time but I never crashed it once. Still looks like this today.

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This RS250 broke all the time but I never crashed it once. Still looks like this today.
That sounds like you need someone in Germany to take it off your hands, sounds like a liability :D
 
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