[Chuck Graves]

The fairing stay has these two 10mm steel spacers that I wanted to remove and install shorter ti bolts.

View attachment 4393

Here's one in one out to show where they go.

View attachment 4394

1 full ounce just by ditching these, and that's not including the savings from shorter bolts.

View attachment 4395

Might as well replace all the Bitubo damper bolts too, right?

View attachment 4396

Took the opportunity to rotate the damper so the logo is more visible and aligned when looking at it from the top. 😎

View attachment 4397

I need more Ti! AV80R is winning !!!!!

 

[Chuck Graves]

I'm working in that area today as well.. I'm still puzzled over the Graves instructions.

View attachment 4398

This can not fit like that. I cant drop the fork leg anyway at the moment.. Yours was on the right side, over or under the lower triple clamp?

edit: ok, found your video again. I'm going to try that tomorrow. Hopefully that works with the oehlins as well.

It will fit with the Ohlins but it’s very tight with the stock fairings in place. Just barely clears by 2-3 mm

 

[Florida lime]

Make sure you use some kind of anti seize with titanium fasteners. This stuff is the best IMO for 2 reasons.

1. It works up to an ungodly temperature
2. It is metal free and cleans up easily with almost no effort. Metal based anti seize pastes are a PITA to clean off threads.

This stuff is cheap on Amazon

Since Tapatalk is no longer supported, can you give the brand of antiseize you suggested, but only pictured ? I'm doing an Amazon order, so I thought I'd get some.
Thanks

 

[AV80R]

Of course. This is the good stuff. You will be amazed at how much easier it cleans up off threads and how much more effective it is on really nasty stuff like exhaust (2000F)

https://a.co/d/idJlWjV

One bottle will be used by your ancestors before it runs out 🤣

 

[Florida lime]

Of course. This is the good stuff. You will be amazed at how much easier it cleans up off threads and how much more effective it is on really nasty stuff like exhaust (2000F)

https://a.co/d/idJlWjV

One bottle will be used by your ancestors before it runs out 🤣

View attachment 4407

Thanks.
Order placed.

 

[NinjaDwarf]

Disappointed how a German company bowed to the imperial system and made the round numbers for that 🤭

 

[AV80R]

Disappointed how a German company bowed to the imperial system and made the round numbers for that 🤭

🇺🇸

 

[NinjaDwarf]

In case you are showing me how Loctite is/used to be American it seems there is a conspiracy from the German government This is actually what it shows for me.

 

[AV80R]

It's a comedy skit from a show here called Saturday Night Live where they poke fun at the idiosyncrasies of the Imperial system and our decision to use it along side the metric system, but only for certain things.

 

[NinjaDwarf]

Oh sure I know Saturday Night Live. Challenge accepted to view this

 

[AV80R]

Google "SNL Metric Skit" and something should pop up!

 

[NinjaDwarf]

Awesome, the link worked on invidious. Great skit, totally hits the nail on the head in so many areas

 

[NinjaDwarf]

@AV80R As an aircraft mechanic what is your take on good-ol' copper paste as anti-seize?

 

[Misnblu2]

@AV80R As an aircraft mechanic what is your take on good-ol' copper paste as anti-seize?

That's exactly what I use.
It's a copper based high temperature anti-seize used for exhaust bolts etc.

Works good as I'm constantly working with swapping my exhaust on the car and the anti-seize makes removing the bolts so much easier without worry of breaking. 👍

 

[NinjaDwarf]

Me too since many years. Cheap as chips and it has been used for decades. I was just wondering if the Loctite stuff is much better.

 

[AV80R]

TLDR: It works better than copper, makes less of a mess, and saves time.

Copper anti seize works, but makes a mess on exhaust studs. I haven't used it in more than a decade since I discovered the White Loctite linked above.

The reasons I like the White Loctite better:

1. It seems to perform much better than copper at exhaust temperatures of 1500-2000F

2. It cleans up much better than copper after disassembly, with just a microfiber towel.

Removing all the copper residue requires acetone or MEK with a whole lot of scrubbing using a wire brush. This is not always easy with engines that have tight clearance around the exhaust components, tubing, and turbochargers.

The reason it's important to get everything totally clean after disassembly is twofold. One is to inspect, two is to allow me to put antiseize exactly where it needs to be and nowhere else. If the stud isn't totally clean, then spinning on a nut by hand can become difficult.

This is really important when you have restricted access and need to get a nut threaded on by hand as far as you can go.

Copper residue sometimes makes that impossible and you end up with an open end wrench turning 1/16 of a rotation, flip the wrench, turn another 1/16 of a rotation, and repeat for what feels like an eternity before the nut finally threads on a long stud.

Of course this opinion is worth what you paid to read it. 🤣

 

[AV80R]

Time for the 3rd oil change at 6000 miles (others were at 400 & 3200 miles).

Love this magnetic drain plug tool. No mess!

Took the opportunity to drill some holes and wire the drain plug.

Riding in the snow was a terrible idea. The bike is so filthy that I have to completely disassemble it to clean it.

S100 and denatured alcohol works great to get road grime and tar off the engine and other bits.

The Graves titanium exhaust gets the ACF-50 treatment.

More titanium for the fuel tank mount.

The entire chassis/engine under the airbox was filthy. This is just the tip of the iceberg, but I managed to get the entire plastic bib, engine, radiator shroud/fan, and wire harness all cleaned up and looking like new again.

 

[AV80R]

I had oil weeping from the right rear corner of the cylinder head cover. I cleaned it all up and then found 3 of 6 bolts loose on the cover. Torqued them down to spec and hopefully that will be that.

After a bit of effort, the entire bike is totally clean again. I like to do this once a year during the winter on all my bikes. Keeps them looking really nice and affords me a good opportunity to inspect everything and catch problems before they get worse (like those loose cylinder head cover bolts)

Another titanium bolt for the airbox to frame.

The race fairing stay should arrive tomorrow and I'll start fitting up the Graves race bodywork.

Still have a ton of body parts to clean 🤦🏻‍♂️

 

[AV80R]

Here's a silly video

 

[Misnblu2]

Good to know on the valve cover bolts needing a check while mine is still in the naked state.
I'll be checking those for torque spec along wThe other bolts while I'm at it.
Thanks for the heads up tip. 👍

Also am I the only one that tore out that rubber mat bib on the bike?
This is the only bike I've owned that has had this and it's a pain in the 🫏 to work around. 🤬 😂

Nice work on the bike and glad to know I'm not the only one that's so anal about having a clean bike. 🤙