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AV80R ZX-4RR build thread

113K views 880 replies 49 participants last post by  steiny  
#1 · (Edited)
I just picked up mine last Friday and have already fell in love after just 300 miles.

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I'm the president of the ZRXOA and have spent tons of time and money making my ZRX1200 more powerful and way lighter. Now I'm ready to go bonkers on the ZX-4RR and do the same thing.

I called Graves today and I'm on the list for their full titanium exhaust system that is being welded up now. It should be shipping in 1-2 weeks. I opted for the high mount version since that will have more mid range than the shorty version.

As soon as I get the exhaust, I'll be shipping them my ECU to get their flash and uncork this thing.

Shipping today from Graves:
Aluminum throttle tube
High flow air filter
Aluminum gas cap
Front & rear wheel captive spacer kit
Tank grip
Axle tool
Smog block off plates
Aluminum engine mount spacer kit
Swingarm spools
Works 2.0 Bar radiator cap
Aluminum valve stems

I plan on replacing every fastener I can with titanium or aluminum, as well as titanium axles and swingarm pivot. The wheels will be changed and the ABS pump will be deleted.

I'm really interested in the details on Graves 341 lb spec bike. I will gladly turn to them to get this bike on a diet!

For now, I'm just going to keep piling on the miles until that full exhaust gets here. It's been fun putting around in 6th gear but I can't wait to spin this bad boy up to 16k!

 
#5 ·
Off the shelf there may not be much available yet, but with a lathe and some patience, you can make spacers to fit up wheels from other existing applications that are appropriate for the ZX-4RR.

I saw those nice Taiwanese wheels that are available now for the ZX-4RR fitment out of the box, but I think I'll be going a different direction.
 
#6 ·
In the first 400 miles for break in, I progressively increased RPM until I was doing full throttle runs in 6th up to 134 MPH right before the oil change.

0-100 miles I kept it below 7k
100-200 miles I kept it below 9k but spend most of my time at 7-8k
200-300 miles I kept it below 11k, and spent a lot of time between 9-10k
300-400 miles I hit redline in the first 3 gears and did many WFO 6th gear runs to 120-134 mph

All of the above was always varying rpm and engine load, never cruising at a constant rpm or throttle.

First oil change exactly at 400 miles which seems apropos 😁

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Took me a minute to figure out how to remove the left fairing but eventually got it off and started draining the oil.
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The oil filter I was given by my dealer (16097-0008) is different than what I took off the bike (16097-0552) but it looks like it's just superseded from a Thailand manufactured one to a China made one.

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I hammered on this thing pretty hard from the 300 to 400 mile mark, so I'm going with Redline 10W-40 for this oil fill.

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A bunch of Graves goodies arrive later today so more when that shows up.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Ok, stock weight off the showroom floor with a full tank of gas and oil filled to the top of the sight window is 420.2 lbs.

Kawasaki claims 414.5 lbs curb weight with a full tank of gas, so maybe they're filling the oil to the lower level. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Do the California bikes have any extra emissions?

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Oil at the upper level mark

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Fuel topped off

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Key in ignition and plastic cap for the steering stem stuck back on.

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Tool kit under passenger seat included

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Removed QuadLock phone mount

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Included rear reflectors with bracket and mounting hardware

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Front reflectors and passenger strap included.

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#13 ·
First up today is the Graves throttle tube. The stock Kawasaki one allows you to roll off about 1/8" into "negative travel", which just feels weird and terrible.

The bar ends came off super easy and the switchgear unscrews with 4 bolts to get the throttle tube off.

A blast of air removed the grip off the stock tube and it was a simple affair of installing the grip on the Graves tube and putting everything back together.

Feels much nicer with no "negative travel".

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Also slapped on the Graves swingarm spools. Ordered titanium bolts to replace the steel ones that are in there for now.

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#17 ·
First up today is the Graves throttle tube. The stock Kawasaki one allows you to roll off about 1/8" into "negative travel", which just feels weird and terrible.

The bar ends came off super easy and the switchgear unscrews with 4 bolts to get the throttle tube off.

A blast of air removed the grip off the stock tube and it was a simple affair of installing the grip on the Graves tube and putting everything back together.

Feels much nicer with no "negative travel".

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Also slapped on the Graves swingarm spools. Ordered titanium bolts to replace the steel ones that are in there for now.

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What difference do you feel from 0-10% throttle cranked over in a corner vs the stock throttle tube?
This is one of my very few complaints with the stock bike.
 
#16 ·
Silly question, but what is the swing arm spool bolt size? Never really looked, as I just used the ones Graves supplied.
It's M8 x 1.25 25mm

I bought these titanium tapered socket head bolts.

 
#20 ·
#21 ·
Nelson Riggs CL-1060-R Commuter Lite tail bag fits great.


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Expands a little which is nice

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Installs without rubbing on any shiny bodywork which is mandatory

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I have the same for the Ninja400 but I have two seats for the bike making the swap to empty seat and to tail bag a simple swap.

My only issue is I'm getting the sport pillion from Kawasaki which has to be mounted semi-permanently making it hard for a simple swap out when you need the tail bag setup.

Do you plan on getting that sport pillion?
 
#23 ·
Yes, I have the solo seat cowl on order and was disappointed to read about how you have to pick one setup or the other and it's not interchangeable.

I'm going to wait until I get it and figure out how to modify it so they can be hot swapped without anything except the key.
Sounds good and look forward to that post once it comes in. 👍
Thanks
 
#27 ·
According to Kawasaki, my engine is officially "broken in" 😁

Spectacular day on the mountains capped off by a stop at the beach. Something about the vibe of a holiday weekend in SoCal makes the beach just awesome to hang at after a day of tearing up some canyons.

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#33 ·
Time to remove the gigantic rear fender.

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Stock one is 3 1/4 lbs

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SC Racing tail today is a little more than 1/2 a lb.

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Removing another bracket on the inside for wire routing gives a tiny bit more storage room and better access.

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The signals on the SC Racing unit are way smaller than stock.

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The angle of the license plate light won't work here in CA. White to the rear is not allowed and the LEDs for the license plate are super bright.

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Covering it with a piece of electrical tape for now, leaving only a small sliver of the white LED exposed.

Going to try to figure out how to angle the white license plate light downward so it's parallel with the ground and won't shine backwards. More to come on that.

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Really glad to get rid of all that weight hanging off the back!

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#35 ·
Time to remove the gigantic rear fender.

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Stock one is 3 1/4 lbs

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SC Racing tail today is a little more than 1/2 a lb.

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Removing another bracket on the inside for wire routing gives a tiny bit more storage room and better access.

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The signals on the SC Racing unit are way smaller than stock.

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The angle of the license plate light won't work here in CA. White to the rear is not allowed and the LEDs for the license plate are super bright.

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Covering it with a piece of electrical tape for now, leaving only a small sliver of the white LED exposed.

Going to try to figure out how to angle the white license plate light downward so it's parallel with the ground and won't shine backwards. More to come on that.

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Really glad to get rid of all that weight hanging off the back!

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You could remove the turn signal stalks from your tidy tail and replace the taillight with one that the turn signals integrated into it.
 
#40 ·
Let's undress this thing and take a look.

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Made in Thailand. [emoji2371]

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Taking the tank off was super easy with the quick disconnect. Barely a drop of fuel spilled.

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Unplug a couple connectors and the ECU is out.

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Disconnected the air temp sensor plug and pulled the bib back to take the airbox lid off.

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What you'd expect for 763 miles. Very clean.

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This little guy had a bad day!

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Installed the DNA reusable/cleanable filter in place and buttoned it all up.

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Put the tank back on so it doesn't get dented or damaged.

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Also took the opportunity to swap out the stock 1.1 bar radiator cap for a 2.0 bar one from Graves.

The Kawasaki coolant is a really nice shade of green!

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Now time to mail off the ECU to @vcyclenut and wait for it to come back.

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#41 ·
Changing the air filter is a pain. Remove the tank and the ecu just to get to it. Im glad the filter on my dirt bike is much easier to get to.

What other color of coolant would you expect to find in a Kawi?

What’s the benefit of changing the radiator cap to one with a higher bar rating?
 
#44 ·
Two reasons:

1. @Gravesport doesn't offer a tune for a stock bike with stock exhaust, so they're not really an option for me until I get their full system shipped to me in about a month.

2. I spent some time talking to @vcyclenut the phone and he's a knowledgeable, good guy. His tune for the stock bike/stock exhaust gets me most of the way to where the Graves tune with their full exhaust will get me. I'm excited to try it out.

$300 for a month of nearly 50% power increase sounds like a great time to me!